La cucina italiana-internazionale di Gualtiero Marchesi
Mimi Sheraton, Traditional dishes still flourish in northern Italy.
In NYT, 17 agosto 1983
Milan Gualtiero Marchesi is a semi-nuova restaurant that deserves its accolades. Named for its chef-owner, the downstairs restaurant suggests a pleasant supper club, although the arty modern sculptures are pretentious and graceless. Cooking, on the other hand, is neither. Food is attractively presented, but there are no tortured arrangements and almost everything was flavorful and delicate. Plates of game birds, lacy green tagliarini with scallops and their roe in a pesto sauce and gratineed shrimp were superb; only a warm salad of shrimp and cucumber seemed contrived and bland.
Rombo, a fish that resembles turbot, had a cloudlike filling of trout mousse and a pink Nantua sauce. Steamed pigeon was tender and full of a good gamy flavor; grapes did not make its sauce too sweet.
Thyme and rosemary worked their magic on rare roasted rack of lamb that was served with a timbale of eggplant mousse. Fruit sherbets, white and dark chocolate mousse with chocolate sauce and Grand Marnier ice cream equaled the rest of the meal. Only a lid of puff pastry over fresh strawberries seemed pointless.
Dinner for four was $166. Gualtiero Marchesi, Via Bonvesin de la Riva 9, 74-12-46.